domingo, diciembre 09, 2007

Desde el tanque de la azotea.

Hay pocas cosas como subir a la azotea de un edificio alto. En la Habana esa categoría la alcanzan los que tienen más de diez pisos. Diecisiete es todo un rascacielos. La azotea tiene un murito en el borde y las antenas de los pisos superiores. Aquí no han venido los cortadores de cables de antena y pueden verse dos parabólicas, que deben obtener su señal del satélite para beneficio de los vecinos de varios apartamentos, sin que los honestos funcionarios les impidan ver HBO, el Discovery o algo peor.

Hay una escalera que me permite subirme al tanque del edificio. Es raro, pero este edificio tiene un solo tanque. No es que los vecinos se hayan puesto de acuerdo para usar el agua sin acaparamiento, si no que la almacenan dentro, a causa de las pocas facilidades que brinda la estructura del edificio. El tanque es sólido y muy grande. Uno puede acostarse sobre él y mirar al cielo, sentir el rumor del agua corriendo por debajo y la frescura del viento que a esta altura es constante.

Sentarme. Ver la Habana desde arriba. Las calles, llenas de gente, automóviles y guaguas humeantes. El mar, al fondo, listo para darles trabajo a los fotógrafos. Es llamativo que el aire sea tan puro ¿será por causa de los diecisiete pisos? ¿la escasez de vehículos?

Lo mejor de mirar desde aquí son las azoteas de los demás edificios, las puertas y ventanas, los muros de la patria mía. Esta ciudad envejece, no sólo sus habitantes. Los edificios son cada vez más viejos, no los demuelen para construir otros, esperan que se caigan. Cuando se caen, todavía hay personas que quieren vivir en ellos, con un arraigo estremecedor. Cuesta trabajo retirar los escombros, hay personas adheridas a ellos. Los edificios viejos tienen su encanto.

Muchas casas tienen sus cimientos en azoteas. Encima de un edificio de ladrillos, de tres pisos, hay un apartamento hecho de bloques con ventanas de acrílico y aluminio. Un aparato de aire acondicionado metido en su jaula, un balón de gas en otra y una cotorra libre, atestiguan que se trata de personas que pueden construir en vez de esperar a que se destruya. No han "tirado" el techo del segundo cuarto, aunque ya están las paredes con los huecos correspondientes a puertas y ventanas.

Ya no hay tantos palomares en las azoteas. El cielo de la ciudad se ha despoblado. Sólo allá, cerca de la calle Galiano, puedo ver una bandada de palomas azules empedradas de gris volando en círculos, ahuyentadas por un hombre que agita un trapo que les impide posarse. Hay, sí, muchos tanques de agua. Tanques de fibrocemento de todos los tamaños, tanques de latón, de acero, de plástico azul o negro. Casi todos los tanques tienen agua, algunos tienen antenas. En los dos casos se trata de vecinos que no pueden confiar en los demás.

Las tendederas hablan de la gente. Aunque utilicen lavadoras automáticas con secadoras (algunos las utilizan), llevan la ropa a secar al sol. Esperan que se blanquee más, aunque no haya agujero en la capa de ozono, la refinería envíe su negro humo a ser respirado y el viento arrastre alguna sábana. En las casas donde colocan sayas cortas, blusas, tangas, hilos dentales, etc., uno espera ver salir a la joven que los usa, vistiendo una tenue bata de casa con una tina. Va pasando por cada pieza, verificando que ya está seca, abriendo cada presilla para descolgar su ropa. El viento le sacude la cabellera, se ve precisada a sujetar la bata entre las piernas para que no se le levante mientras guarda un ajustador en la tina. Al final, ayudándose con la barbilla para que no se escape su ropa, entra por el hueco oscuro que es la escalera de su casa. Imagino que vive en el último piso y que suya es la ventana por donde veo figuras en movimiento. No logro imaginar más. Es una más entre tantas ventanas que guardan silencio.

Hay azoteas ausentes. Las paredes de los edificios simulan poseerlas, pero vistas desde aquí, se descubre el fraude. La mayoría, no obstante, permanece. Pisos quebrados, muros rotos, hierros oxidados, maderas podridas, papel impermeable levantado, tejas movidas, dan fe de un milagro: que lo habaneros aún consientan en meterse debajo con valor, seguros de que no les va a caer encima, esperando no mojarse, creyendo que alguna vez la repararán.

Desde aquí creo comprenderlo todo. Ver qué se maquina en esos edificios sin vista afuera. Ver el ensayo de los músicos, las bailarinas. Al escritor sufriendo para redactar un informe, al pintor simulando que trabaja mientras sus ojos vagan por el cuerpo de la modelo, al vendedor de libros de uso pegando con cinta escocesa las hojas caídas de una vieja edición.

Me paro encima del tanque, en lo más alto. Una grúa inmensa trabaja en un edificio cercano. Tiendo los brazos hacia ella: puedo tocarla. Saltaré. Abriendo los brazos, hinchando el pecho con aire lleno de escapes sin catalizar, me estiraré hasta que mis manos agarren el gancho de acero que pende de la punta de la máquina. Un balanceo, otro, y saldré disparado hacia las nubes.

Veré la ciudad deslizarse. Las ventanas se abrirán para mí. Las mujeres sacarán la cabeza para saludarme, que me quede con ellas. Veré las cocinas apagadas, los colchones manchados, los baños rotos: seré testigo omnisciente. Nada me será ocultado. El viento, dejará de sostenerme y comienza la caída. Ya voy, el pecho abajo, ya voy hacia la calle. Y sólo deseo no frenar y despertarme en el último instante sudando en mi cama.

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Incluyo tu blog en mi lista de Blogs sobre Cuba.
Saludos
Al Godar

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